Hook is my new favorite Washington, D.C., restaurant. Not just because the food is excellent–trust me, it is–but because chef Barton Seaver aims to serve only seafood that is sustainably caught, accompanied by local produce. I wrote about Hook in my CNNMoney.com column, which is now called Sustainability.

Here’s how the column begins:

At Hook, a Washington, D.C., seafood restaurant, there’s no Chilean sea bass, bluefin tuna or grouper on the menu. You can’t order asparagus in the fall, or strawberries in winter.

But would you like to try the wahoo? Or the sablefish? Or the foot-long tiger shrimp? Or the celeriac-apple slaw?

Running a restaurant is hard. Running a restaurant that serves only sustainably-caught seafood and locally-grown produce, and tries to educate its customers about the plight of the oceans – well, that’s an even bigger challenge.

Why write about a chef? Because chefs and restaurants help shape our food culture, and what we eat matters a lot to the environment. You can read the rest of the column here.